آموزش بافت عروسک خوک + ویدئو و نقشه

امروز با توجه به نزیک شدن به نوروز نود و هشت، آموزش بافت یک عروسک خوک بسیار زیبا را برای شما در نظر گرفتم. هنرمند در طول این دو ویدئو بافت عروسک خوک بسیار زیبایی را به صورت قدم به قدم از بافت گره اول تا کور کردن گره آخر، آموزش می دهد. در ادامه نیز الگوی بافت این عروسک را به زبان انگلیسی قرار می دهم. هنرمندان تنها با آشنایی با چند اصطلاح و اختصار انگلیسی قلاب بافی از تماشای ویدئو بی نیاز خواهند شد. امیدوارم از تماشای کار این هنرمند استفاده ببرید.

Abbreviations:
st = stitch بافت/ گره
sc = single crochet بافت پایه کوتاه
sl st = slip stitch  بخیه، گره نامرئی، بافت نامرئی
FLO = front loops only تنها حلقه جلویی زنجیر بافته شود
ch = chain زنجیر
f/o = finish off

Snout:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
*the starting yarn tail should be long enough to sew into the head.
sl st the first st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
stretch out the snout with your fingers to make it flat.  

Starting at the top of the head:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12) 
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in the next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-8) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
9) 1sc in the next 2st then 2tog (18)
*sew the snout on now. Place it over  the 6th row and 8th row. Sew it gently, don’t pullthe yarn tails too tight that will alter the shape.When done, knot off the yarn tails and cut up shorter, you can leave them hanging in the head.
*add the eyes. If you use black yarn like I did, they are wrapped in between the 5th and 6th row or in between the 6th and 7th (this is where I put mine), whichever looks best to you.  See photos just below this section
10) 1sc then 2tog (12)
11) 1sc then 2tog (8)*if you start to see gaps in your stitches try the inv dec by crocheting the FLO when crocheting 2tog.
12) 2sc in each st (16) 
13) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (20)
14) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (25)
*stuff head firmly and full. Shape as you stuff.
15) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (20) 
16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (16)
17) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail long enough to sew up the gap. Weave in and out of the FLO of the  remaining st, stuff the rest of the body firmly and full, shape as you stuff.
If it’s too hard to stuff while the gap is open wide just pull on the yarn tail to close up the gap a bit, then stuff some more. Make sure to shape as you stuff. Use a stuffing stick orthe back end of a pencil to push the stuffing into the right spots.  Pull the yarn tail to close up the gap then knot off. Hide yarn tail in body.

*Part two of the video tutorial shows how to make the limbs/tail and sew them on. How to make the ears, add the eyes and how to add color to the snout. Click here for part two.  

Arms 
1) ch 13
2) starting with 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (12)
f/o. Fold chain and sew the edges closed, going through one visible loop only of each side. Hide the starting yarn tail inside limb and use the finishing yarn tail to sew the limbs to the body. 

Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2-7) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. 
you can stuff the legs very lightly so they hold their shape. Use the back end of a pencil to push the stuffing in. Just a little tiny bit of stuffing does the trick.

Tail: 
1) ch6 *begin with a long enough starting tail that can be sewn into the body
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
weave the finishing yarn tail in and out the chain to the starting end. Pull slightly and twist the chain. You might have to play with it a bit before it looks right. Knot off the finishing yarn tail. See photos in the assembly section below. 

Ears:
see assembly section below 

ASSEMBLY:
1) Sew the arms just under the neck. Hide the yarn tails inside the body.
2) Sew the legs on. Some people will find these smaller amigurumis hard to sew together. I used to as well, I used to dread sewing things together! The trick is to relax, don’t hold things so tight. Let the yarn needle do the work.  Pin the legs on first to make sure you have room for both legs. Take one leg off and gently sew the first leg on. Once that’s done, sew the 2nd leg on. Knot off  then remaining yarn tails up shorter then hide them  inside the body.

3) Sew the tail to the back of the body

4) Ears:
*do the ears after you have the arms and legs sewn on. Use the arms as a guide. The ears should be inline with the arms.
Insert yarn in between the middle loop and the 1st row.
1) ch1 then put 1hdc in the same space, 1hdc in the next 3 spaces, (4) ch1 and turn
2) skip ch, 1hdc in the next 4st, (4) ch1 turn
3) skip ch, sc2tog twice (2) ch1 turn 
4) skip ch, 1sc in next 2st (2)
f/o leaving a long tail . Straighten out the ear if needed.
weave the finishing yarn tail in and out along the edge of the ear. Once you reach the head, pull the yarn tail slightly to pull the top of the ear down and forward. Once you’re happy with how it looks, knot off then hide the yarn tail in the head.

Adding color to the snout:
When your doll is all done, you can add a bit of color to the snout just by rubbing on a bit of blush. If you have no blush, try a felt pen but rub the felt pen onto your finger then rub your finger over the snout, that way you’re not adding too much color. It’s better to start off lightly and build the color.
You can add in nostrils with paint. I dipped a  pin into dark brown and pushed the pin into the spot I wanted the nostrils to be.